If you want your own Buildabot 3d printer, go to york3dprinters.com
This bearing was printed at 0.2mm layer, (which is low res – high can be smaller than 0.1mm) with a speed of 36mm/s. Total print time was 3 hours. The machine builds support around the balls to keep them from rolling around. You can easily break away the support with a pair of long nose pliers. 3 minute job. The bearing runs fine, without dropping its balls everywhere. Great!
Photo doesn’t really do it justice. all of the build lines are very feint, even and I must stop taking photos with my mobile phone…
I just looked at the reprap competition page – and found Voronoi_D_Tower_Dizingof_quarter_resolution_half_size_competition_print
So I thought I would give it a try.
This is printed at 60mm/s, no heated bed yet. Total time took just over an hour.
I can see a few whiskers, so I think that the retract speed needs a tweak. I’m also thinking that the e_steps need backing off a little….
Pretty good for a second print!
I’ve done a test print…
Although there is still some slight calibration required, the initial tests are really very good.
This nude model print is 1.75mm yellow PLA running at 130mm/s, 0.2 layers it had 10 second layer switched on. It is hollow with no support.
My old Mendel shakes too much at 50mm/s to get a decent print – its happier at 30mm/s, so I’m delighted with this result! (almost out-of-the-box)
Powered up, and tested.
Pressing ‘down’ on Pronterface decreases the gap between table and nozzle, and ‘up’ increases the gap. I would prefer ‘Move nozzle Up/Down’ it to be ‘move bed Up/Down’ I will have to ask on the reprap forum if this can be changed – theoretically it is just remapping the buttons on the Gui. I guess that I am having this issue because the firmware expects the nozzle to move up and down, and not the print bed. hmmm
UPDATE:21Nov2012 – Having just had delivered one of the two Orcas I originally ordered on the 7th Sept, I realise that Orca’s firmware works exactly the same. So this must be some generic issue. It doesn’t really bother me though – you just get used to it.
I find when doing any job, the finishing off takes the longest.
In this case, It has taken me ages to put the microswitches on the machine to test it. I hate wiring.
Luckily, Buildabot now has molex plugs, so its just a case of plugging everything in..
The motherboard reset switch is on a flying lead. As the electronics are underneath the machine, this flying lead means that you don’t have to dig around underneath there every time you want to update the firmware.
The only reason that I should need to access the electronics is for the initial stepper driver pot adjustment.
One screw, and the electronics backplate drops down, and you can get to everything that you need. Easy!
Some assorted pics of my new Buildabot printer.
Main Chassis screws together in about 10 mins, and is instantly aligned! – Much easier than my old Repap – see the first pic below
I’ve got a Raw kit, which means the ally is how it comes from the laser cutters.
Options are only limited by imagination.
I could have painted it, leatherclad, stickerbombed it or even wallpapered it but I wanted to polish this myself. 6 h ours of sanding 120, 240, 400, 1000 grit wet & dry followed by peek metal polish (I put a cloth on the palm sander pad)
The finish is OK, although here is a slight haze. Never mind, the parts are still fairly shiny – and I’m impatient.
I want to start assembling!