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Buildabot’s latest print!

This bearing was printed at 0.2mm layer, (which is low res – high can be smaller than 0.1mm)  with a speed of 36mm/s. Total print time was 3 hours. The machine builds support around the balls to keep them from rolling around. You can easily break away the support with a pair of long nose pliers. 3 minute job. The bearing runs fine, without dropping its balls everywhere. Great!

Photo doesn’t really do it justice. all of the build lines are very feint, even and I must stop taking photos with my mobile phone…

Buildabot printed bearing - 0.2mm layer, 36mm/s print, 50mm/s travel, 40% fill.

Buildabot’s 3rd print

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Buildabot Rules!

Buildabot Rules!


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…more printing…

I just looked at the reprap competition page – and found Voronoi_D_Tower_Dizingof_quarter_resolution_half_size_competition_print

So I thought I would give it a try.

This is printed at 60mm/s,  no heated bed yet. Total time took just over an hour.


I can see a few whiskers, so I think that the retract speed needs a tweak. I’m also thinking that the e_steps need backing off a little….

Pretty good for a second print!


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I’ve done a test print…

Although there is still some slight calibration required, the initial tests are really very good.

This nude model print is 1.75mm yellow PLA running at 130mm/s, 0.2 layers it had 10 second layer switched on. It is hollow with no support.

My old Mendel shakes too much at 50mm/s to get a decent print – its happier at 30mm/s, so I’m delighted with this result! (almost out-of-the-box)


Buildabot Printing

Buildabot Printing – guts out (bottom right) calibrating steppers


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Buildabot Lives!

Powered up, and tested.

Buildabot Lives!

Buildabot Lives! (complete with my smudgy fingerprints!)


Pressing ‘down’ on Pronterface decreases the gap between table and nozzle, and ‘up’ increases the gap. I would prefer ‘Move nozzle Up/Down’ it to be ‘move bed Up/Down’ I will have to ask on the reprap forum if this can be changed – theoretically it is just remapping the buttons on the Gui. I guess that I am having this issue because the firmware expects the nozzle to move up and down, and not the print bed. hmmm


UPDATE:21Nov2012 – Having just had delivered one of the two Orcas I originally ordered on the 7th Sept, I realise that Orca’s firmware works exactly the same. So this must be some generic issue. It doesn’t really bother me though – you just get used to it.

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Almost Complete…. …Almost!!

I find when doing any job, the finishing off takes the longest.

In this case, It has taken me ages to put the microswitches on the machine to test it. I hate wiring.

Luckily, Buildabot now has molex plugs, so its just a case of plugging everything in..

3d printer - underneath

Buildabot 3d printer – underneath – just ready for wiring to be completed

The motherboard reset switch is on a flying lead. As the electronics are underneath the machine,  this flying lead means that you don’t have to dig around underneath there every time you want to update the firmware.

The only reason that I should need to access the electronics is for the initial stepper driver pot adjustment.

One screw, and the electronics backplate drops down, and you can get to everything that you need. Easy!

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Feature Pics

Some assorted pics of my new Buildabot printer.

Y-belt tensioner

Y-belt tensioner


Y-Belt run

Y-Belt run – with Aluminium pulleys, and T2.5 Belting


Axis rail retainer

Axis rail retainer


X axis belt holder

X axis belt holder – this works better than you might think!

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The big build….

Main Chassis screws together in about 10 mins, and is instantly aligned! – Much easier than my old Repap – see the first pic below


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A kit of Aluminium parts!

I’ve got a Raw kit, which means the ally is how it comes from the laser cutters.

Options are only limited by imagination.

I could have painted it, leatherclad, stickerbombed it or even wallpapered it but I wanted to polish this myself. 6 h ours of sanding 120, 240, 400, 1000 grit wet & dry followed by peek metal polish (I put a cloth on the palm sander pad)

The finish is OK, although here is a slight haze. Never mind, the parts are still fairly shiny – and I’m impatient.

I want to start assembling!

Laser Cut Ally Panels

Laser Cut Ally Panels – all polished

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